The Rolex Explorer II reference 16570 holds a special place in the hearts of many watch enthusiasts. Its rugged design, practical functionality, and association with exploration make it a highly sought-after timepiece. However, within the 16570 production run, there's a significant distinction based on the movement used: the Calibre 3185 and its successor, the Calibre 3186. Understanding the differences between these movements is crucial for collectors and prospective buyers, not only for appreciating the watch's history but also for accurate identification and valuation. This article will delve into the details of differentiating these movements, exploring their characteristics, and examining the broader context of the Rolex Explorer II 16570.
Rolex Explorer 16570: A Brief Overview
Before we dissect the intricacies of the 3185 and 3186 movements, let's establish the context of the Rolex Explorer II 16570 itself. This model, introduced in 1989, built upon the legacy of its predecessors, offering a robust and reliable tool watch perfect for demanding environments. Key features include:
* GMT Hand: The signature fixed 24-hour hand, crucial for tracking a second time zone, primarily designed for differentiating day and night in low-light conditions.
* Luminous Markers: Highly legible luminous hour markers and hands ensure readability in any situation.
* Oyster Case: The robust Oyster case provides exceptional water resistance and protection.
* Triplock Crown: The Triplock crown system further enhances water resistance and protects the movement.
* Parachrom Hairspring: Many 16570 models, particularly those with the 3186 movement, feature the Parachrom hairspring, a Rolex-developed material resistant to magnetic fields and temperature variations.
Rolex Explorer 3185 vs 3186: Identifying the Movement
The most significant difference between various 16570 models lies within the movement. While both the Calibre 3185 and 3186 are highly reliable automatic movements, several key distinctions exist, enabling identification:
1. The "Wiggle Test": A Crucial Differentiation Method
This is perhaps the most well-known method for differentiating between the 3185 and 3186. The method hinges on the independent adjustment of the hour hand in relation to the minute hand.
* Calibre 3185: With the 3185 movement, adjusting the hour hand independently (without affecting the minute hand) results in a noticeable "wiggle" or slight jumpiness as the hour hand moves. This is because the hour hand is not directly driven by the movement but rather interacts with the minute hand mechanism. The adjustment is achieved through a quick-set mechanism that can be felt as a slight resistance or jumpiness during adjustment.
* Calibre 3186: The 3186 movement eliminates this "wiggle." The hour hand adjustment is smoother and more precise. The improved mechanism allows for a more seamless and controlled adjustment of the hour hand without the noticeable jumpiness associated with the 3185. This is a significant improvement in usability and feel.
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